Tech Article – Drum brake shoes – replacement and adjustment

Parts you might need - link to category Stock Brake Parts

Warning: The dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never use compressed air to blow it out with and don t inhale any of it. Wear an OSHA-approved filtering mask when working on the brakes. Don t, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only. Always replace drum brake shoes in pairs, front or rear) – never replace the shoes on only one wheel. Work on one brake assembly at a time so you don’t mix up parts.

Caution: Whenever the brake shoes are replaced, the retractor and hold-down springs should also be replaced. They lose their tension over a period of time and may allow the shoes to drag on the drum and wear at a faster rate than normal, due to continuous heating/cooling cycle that the springs are subjected to. When replacing the brake shoes, use only high quality, nationally recognized brand-name parts.

Replacement
Raise the front or rear of the vehicle and place it securely on jack-stands after loosing the wheel lug bolts. Block the wheel on the ground. Apply the parking brake to keep the vehicle from rolling, if you re removing the front wheels. Now take off the wheels.

Remove the clip which secures the speedometer cable to the left dust cap, on the left front wheel. Pry off the dust cap that protects the wheel bearing on all wheels.

Look over for cracks, score marks, deep scratches and hard spots, which will appear as small discolored areas, before reinstalling the drum. Remove hard spots with fine emery cloth. Have the drum turned by an automotive machine shop, if that doesn t do it or if any of the other conditions described above are evident. Note: Professionals recommend resurfacing the drums every time you do a brake job. Resurfacing eliminates the possibility of out-of-round drums. If the drums are worn so much that they can t be resurfaced without exceeding the maximum allowable diameter (stamped or cast into the drum), replace them. Remove the glazing from the surface with emery cloth or sandpaper, using a swirling motion, if you decide to skip resurfacing.

Now put the brake drum in. Install the bearing, the thrust washer and the axle nut and adjust the bearing, on front wheels.

Mount the wheel, hand tighten the lug bolts and lower the vehicle. Tighten the wheel lug bolts to the torque. Tighten the axle nut to the torque on rear wheels.

Adjustment
Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. If you re adjusting the rear brakes, release the parking brake.

Using firm pressure, depress the brake pedal several time, to center the brake shoes in the drum. Rotate the wheel until the hole in the brake drum is aligned with one of the star wheel adjusters, on 1969 and earlier models. Remove the rubber plugs from the brake backing plate on 1970 and later models.

Turn the star wheel of the adjuster, while rotating the wheel, using a brake adjusting tool or a screwdriver, until the brake shoe slightly drags on the drum. Note: It may be necessary to press on the brake pedal to center the shoes once or twice during the adjustment procedure, if the brakes are way out of adjustment. Now, turn the star wheel in the opposite direction three or four clicks so the wheel can turn freely.

Repeat the previous step on the star wheel of the other brake shoe, then perform the adjustment procedure to the rest of the wheels.

You want to check brake operation before driving the vehicle in traffic.

Wheel cylinder – removal, overhaul and installation
Note: If an overhaul is indicated (usually because of fluid leakage or sticky operation) explore all options before beginning the job. New wheel cylinder will make this job quite easy. If you decided to rebuild the wheel cylinder, make sure that a rebuild kit is available before continuing. Always rebuild or replace them in pairs (front or rear).

Removal
Loosen the lug wheel nuts. Raise the front, or rear, of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Make sure to block the wheels still on the ground to keep the vehicle form rolling. Now remove the wheel(s).

Take off the brake drum and the brake shoes.

Get rid of all dirt and foreign material from around the wheel cylinder.

Unscrew the brake line fitting. Don t pull the brake line away from the wheel cylinder.

Remove the wheel cylinder mounting bolt(s).

Unhook the wheel cylinder from the brake backing plate and place it on a clean workbench. Unplug the brake line to prevent fluid loss and contamination, RIGHT AWAY! Note: If the brake shoe linings are contaminated with brake fluid, install new brake shoes.

Overhaul
Take off the bleeder valve, cups, pistons, boots and spring assembly from the wheel cylinder body.

Using brake fluid, clean the wheel cylinder, denatured alcohol or brake system cleaner. Warning:  Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts!

Using compressed air, remove excess fluid from the wheel cylinder and to blow out the passages.

Look over the cylinder bore for corrosion and score marks. You can use crocus cloth to remove light corrosion and stains, but the cylinder must be replaced with a new one if the defects can t be taken off easily, or if the bore is scored.

Lubricate the new cups with brake fluid.

Assemble the wheel cylinder components and make sure the cup lips face in.

Installation
Install the bolt(s) loosely, after placing the wheel cylinder in position.

Connect the brake line, but don t tighten it yet. Tighten the wheel cylinder bolt(s) securely, then tighten the brake line fitting. Now put in the brake shoes and the brake drum.

Now bleed the brakes.

Check brake operation before you drive the vehicle into traffic.

Parts you might need - link to category Stock Carburetor Parts

Before you begin to adjust the carburetor, the valves, points, and timing should be set. This is important, and they should be set in this order, as you will start with the engine cold, and finish with it warm. It’s important to set the valves, points, timing and to check the choke before setting the carburetor, as they all work together for a smooth running engine. Details regarding these settings are given in the links below.

The following descriptions apply to all types of carburetors -

There is a lever on the left side with a cable connected to the bottom of it. This is the throttle lever; the cable is the accelerator cable.

Note:Before adjusting the carburetor, it is essential that the accelerator cable be properly adjusted. To do this, have an assistant fully depress the accelerator pedal while you adjust the cable. Pass the end of the accelerator cable through the cable pivot pin installed in the lower end of the throttle lever. The books say that with the pedal fully depressed and the cable extended forward, the throttle lever should be wide open and attached to the cable such that there is about 1mm of clearance between the throttle lever and the carburetor.

You may find it easiest to simply note where the clamp goes on the cable end in this position (wide open), then let up on the pedal and make the connection with the system relaxed. Or, if working by myself, I find that I can come very close by adjusting the cable as follows: With the idle screw against the very bottom of the stepped cam, pull the cable back finger-tight and snug down the screw to secure the cable. It takes three hands — I use my channel lock pliers and hold the end of the cable to the throttle lever while I tighten the screw with the other hand.

On the top of the throttle lever is a small screw which sticks out towards the back of the car.
This is the “idle adjustment screw” on the 28 and 30 series carburetors,
and called the “fast idle adjuster” on the 30PICT/3, 34PICT/3, 31PICT and Brosol H30/31.

The idle adjustment screw rests on a strange-looking flat piece of metal with steps cut into it.
This is the fast idle cam, and works with the choke to give a reliable idle on a cold engine.

The engine must be warm to set the carburetor so that the choke is off (i.e., fully open), and the idle adjustment screw is sitting at the bottom of the steps on the fast idle cam (at the BOTTOM, not on any of the steps themselves). Directly beneath the fast idle cam on the left side of the carburetor you will see (on the older models) a single screw with a spring wrapped around it. This is the volume control screw, and this type of carburetor can be called a “one adjusting screw” type of carburetor. The later model carburetors also have a larger bypass screw that is used for setting the idle speed – the fast idle adjustment screw and stepped cam are NOT used to adjust the idle speed on these “two adjusting screw” carburetors.

On the side of the carburetor body is a barrel-shaped object, a little larger a pen-light battery, with a black wire connected to the outer end. This is the idle fuel cutoff valve (solenoid). On older model carburetors it’s on the right side, and on later models it’s on the left, close to the throttle arm. This valve shuts off the flow of fuel when you turn off the engine, to prevent “running on.” Be sure the wire is connected and that it runs to the (+) terminal on the coil. (Also attached to this terminal is the black wire that provides power to the automatic choke.) Make sure that the idle cutoff valve is screwed into the carburetor snuggly, and not rattling loose. Don’t overtighten it though, it’s got a fine brass thread and screws into aluminum — both relatively soft metals.
Note: You can test the operation of the idle cutoff valve solenoid very easily. Turn on the ignition (don’t start the car), and pull off the wire on the solenoid. Touch the wire back onto the connector, and you should hear a clicking sound as the valve inside moves. If you do not hear a clicking sound, check to make sure there is power (12 volts) to the wire (small trouble light, voltmeter, etc.). Replace the solenoid if necessary. If it’s not working, you won’t get a proper idle, and you’ll get rough running at traffic speeds, too.

As stated previously, before attempting to adjust the carburetor make sure your engine is warm and the choke butterfly standing upright. Make sure the air cleaner is seated firmly on the top of the carburetor before beginning the adjustment — the engine expects it to be there.

The 28PCI, 28 PICT, 28PICT/1, 30PICT/1, and 30PICT/2 all have one adjusting screw in the left side of the carburetor (the Volume screw) and an idle speed screw on the throttle arm. They can all be tuned using our procedure for the Adjustment of “Single-Screw” Carburetors.

The 30PICT/3, 31PICT, H30/31 and 34PICT/3 all have two adjusting screws in the left side (the smaller Volume and larger Bypass screws) and a fast-idle screw on the throttle arm.
They can be set using the our procedure for the Adjustment of “Two-Screw” Carburetors.

Folks, Don asked me to post this, hope it s of some assistance….
So you need to remove you rear torsion bars, or spring plates, or maybe change the pre-load on the suspension ?
Had the same need myself a while back, and came across some info that may be helpful.
If you already know to do this, or have some other info or suggestions, then feel free to add, ask questions, or provide comment.

Firstly a disclaimer: – the following also is intended to be a guide only, I’m not a trained mechanic,
but I do maintain my own buggy, and have attempted to use both of the following techniques, one more successfully than the other.
If you attempting these activities, you do so at your own risk,
and I accept no liability for anything that may occur, other than the smile on your face when it works correctly.

Parts you might need – link to category Rear Suspension Parts

The parts of the VW rear suspension are under a severe amount of “pressure”, and should things go wrong (for whatever reason) then personal injury, or damage to your vehicle, is highly possible. It is a safe enough procedure when tackled correctly, however, I cannot stress enough – you must keep all bodily parts as far away as possible from the moving bits of the suspension and equipment you’re using – when things go wrong, they will do extremely quickly and you will NOT have an opportunity to move out of the way, regardless of how fast you think your reactions are.

If you have any doubts or concerns, about this, then do not attempt it, leave it to a trained mechanic, or someone that’s knows what they’re doing and are willing to help.

I’m not going to cover the removal of brakes, shocks, or how to disconnect the trailing arms – I’m sure you’re all big enough and ugly enough to be able to figure that out for yourselves. So, the point that I m assuming we’re starting from is where the spring plate is not connected to anything apart from the torsion bar housing.

Firstly you’ll need to remove the torsion bar retaining cover/end caps, and believe me, you do not want to mess this up – the 4 bolts will most likely be rusted tight and will not shift easily – take your time, have patience, use lots of penetrating oil, gentle heat and any other tricks you may have up your sleeve to loosen them. DO NOT SHEAR THESE BOLTS, if you do the best case scenario is that you’ll have to drill them out and re-tap them, which is a real pain – the worse case scenario is that you’ll make a real mess of the torsion housing and then you’ll need specialist help to replace or repair it, which will no doubt cost lots of bucks.

Once the end cap is removed, the only thing holding the spring plate to the torsion bar is the amount of pre-load (i.e. at rest, it s semi-twisted to give the desired amount of “spring”) that’s been set previously, and the fact that the spring plate at full suspension droop is held in place by a small channel at the bottom of the torsion housing end casting. Until you get the spring plate out of this channel, and remove that pre-load, you won t be able to get the spring plate off the end of the torsion bar.

There are two methods that I’m aware of to achieve this, the jack n chain method, which is described very well, in the following link, and the method that I, and various racers that I know, use, utilising a lifting method, which I’ll outline later:

So firstly, the jack ‘n chain method – read this and pay specific attention to what you need to mark in order to return the suspension to the same position/level of pre-load. Once preload is removed and the spring plate is lowered to it’s full extent, this article also covers all the other bits you need to know, regardless of the method of removing the spring plate.:

http://www.meyersmanx.com/garage/garage_suspend.htm

Personally I had no luck at all using this jack ‘n chain method, I suspect because my trolley jack didn’t have enough grunt to do the job, made worse by a larger than standard amount of preload that had been set. The other negative I’ve heard about this method is that doesn’t offer enough control – when you lower the jack it’s difficult to control how fast it moves.

So taking these issues into account, I opted for a “lifting method” – made easier by having a tube buggy and lots of places to connect things to – so it may not work on a sedan.

Essentially I connected a very large turnbuckle (you may call them something different on your side of the Pacific) and a length of large gauge chain – bolted the turnbuckle to point A on the frame, shown in the attached diagram, attached the chain to the turnbuckle, and then bolted the other end to the spring plate at point B. Tightening the turnbuckle lifts the spring plate, loosening it lowers the spring plate – the rest is as per the jack ‘n chain method.

An alternative version of this method would be to use a length of threaded bar, bent at 90 degrees to go through the top shock mount (or attached by whatever method you need for your specific situation), and then attach a large washer and nut to the threaded bar below the spring plate at point C – tighten the nut the spring plate goes up etc., etc. However, word of warning – this alternative will only really work if you have double spring plates, and you’ll need to put a bolt though two of the spring plate holes(shown in red), and run the treaded bar between the plates and the bolts – the bolts will stop the bar either slipping off the end of the spring plate or moving further along it.

A couple of other things to be aware of that may make the job more difficult than it seems. Firstly lubrication – or more specifically LACK of lubrication on the splines of the torsion bar. If there was insufficient grease on the splines of the torsion bar, you will have a devil of a job getting the spring plate off – so when you put them back – make sure you’ve got lots of grease, it’ll make your life easier in the long run. Similarly if the inner and outer rubber bushes have seen better days they may well be stuck to the spring plate and/or torsion housing, again making removal very difficult. For example, I suffered from both problems, and removing the drivers side spring plate took a 2-foot pry bar, plus a 6’ extension tube and much sweat and swearing to get enough leverage to get the plate off – conversely, the other side came off as easily as serving premium grade soft scoop ice cream with a warm spoon.

Secondly, associated with this problem is that needing to use lots of effort to remove the spring plate, is that more often than not the spring plate comes off with the torsion bar still attached – result: you’ve no idea how the torsion bars were originally set. Don’t know of an easy resolution to this problem – maybe someone else has some ideas ?

And the third problem is stuck torsion bars due to lack of lubricant on the inner splines. In my instance, the drivers side torsion bar came off with the spring plate – the passenger side torsion bar stayed in place when the spring plate came off. To remove it I used a long piece of steel bar fed through the torsion housing from the other side, and a large hammer – big wack on the steel bar and the torsion bar (previously stuck) shot out of the other side of the housing. Don’t know how you’d remove them if both bars were stuck – ideas anyone ?

The preceding Internet link covers how to replace the torsion bars and setting them up – however, my one piece of advice is that the both left and right bars look very similar – make sure you get them around the right way – they are marked LHS and RHS (for left and right) on the outter ends of each bar – make sure that when you re-install them they go on the correct side, otherwise you will suffer from very premature torsion bar failure – once used torsion bars become set i.e. they’ll only twist in one direction, reinstalling them wrongly will cause them to try and twist in the opposite direction, which won’t work for very long. I’m not sure whether aftermarket bars, such as Sway-Away, have similar markings, although I’m assuming they do. You can t put them in the wrong way as there are a different number of splines on the inner and outer ends, so they won t fit.

Hope this is of some assistance – and as mentioned previously, I’m open to suggestions, and comments.

Cheers … Kimbo

On models that have a manual transaxle, the accelerator, brake and clutch pedals are mounted on a common shaft which is bolted to the left side of the center tunnel. There s no clutch pedal on models equipped with an Automatic Stick Shift – the brake pedal is wider and has two arms attached to a common bushing.

Unhook the clutch cable from the clutch release lever at the transaxle.

Parts you might need – link to category Pedals and Parts

Try the accelerator pedal return spring aside, pull out the accelerator pedal pivot pin and remove the accelerator pedal.

Now pry the master cylinder pushrod clip out of the way and remove the pivot pin.

Take out the pedal cluster mounting bolts.

Pull out the pedal cluster and the (still connected) clutch cable. Unhook the clutch cable.

The clutch pedal is pressed onto the end of the clutch pedal shaft and secured with a small pin that is driven through the pedal and the shaft. Mark the end of the shaft and the pedal to make sure that the hole in the pedal and the hole in the shaft are realigned during reassembly.

Drive out the pin which secures the clutch pedal to the shaft using a hammer and a narrow punch.

Now pull off the clutch pedal. Tap if off with a soft faced hammer if it won t budge.

Take off the snap-ring that holds the brake pedal on the pedal cluster.

Pull the brake pedal off the pedal cluster.

Take off the clutch pedal shaft. Look it over for burrs and nicks after wiping the shaft off. Clean it up with emery or crocus cloth if it s damaged.

Installation is the reverse of removal. It s probably a good idea to adjust the brake master cylinder pushrod clearance and the clutch cable.

Place the shift lever in first or third gear.

Take out the rear seat and unhook the negative cable from the battery.

Remove the inspection cover for he shift rod coupling and take out the bolt behind the coupling.

Move the shift lever to second or fourth in order to unhook the shift rod from the coupling.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack-stands. Take off the rear wheels (swing axle models only).

Drain the transaxle fluid.

Take out the engine.

Disconnect and plug the rear brake lines.

Use a chisel to make alignment marks on the spring plate and the axleshaft bearing housing to ensure proper realignment during reassembly, on all models with swing axles.

Parts you might need – link to category Transaxle Parts

Unhook the inner ends of both driveaxles from the transaxle if you re not going to move the vehicle. This is on models with driveaxles. If you plan to move the vehicle, remove the driveaxles entirely. Cover the CV joints with plastic bags to keep out dirt and moisture and hang the driveaxles out of the way.

Unhook the clutch cable from the clutch operating shaft lever, slide off the boot and take off the cable and sleeve from the bracket.

Unhook the starter wires.

Peel back the rubber caps and detach the back-up light electrical connectors form the transaxle on later models.

Remove the nuts form the transaxle front mount.

With a piece of wood on the jack head, place a floor jack down under the transaxle and raise the jack until it supports the transaxle.

Take off the transaxle carrier bolts.

Look over all the wires, for a final check, and make sure hoses have been disconnected from the transaxle, then carefully pull the transaxle and jack to the rear and lower the jack.

Remove and look over the rear mounts. Replace them if they are dried, cracked or damaged.

Installation

Install the transaxle carrier and mounts, if removed. Note: Don t tighten the three nuts for each rear mount until after the transaxle has been installed and youve tightened the front mount nuts.

If they have been removed, install the swing axles.

Place the transaxle on the floor jack and raise into place. Slide the swing axles into position in the spring plates on models with swing axles. Grease and install the transaxle carrier bolts and tighten them to the torque.

Align the marks on the axleshaft bearing housings with the match marks you made on the spring plates before disassembly, on models with swing axles, and install the spring plate mounting bolts and tighten them to the torque. Install the axle boots. Now put back in the brake lines and bleed the brakes. Re-hook and adjust the parking brake cable. Install the wheels.

Install the drive-axles or – if you only detached the inner ends – reattach the driveaxles to the transaxle, on models with drive-axles.

Look over all clutch components before proceeding. Usually, new clutch components should be routinely installed any time the engine is removed.

Install the engine.

Now re-hook the clutch cable and adjust it.

Reattach all of the electrical connectors that were unhooked.

Make a final check that all wires, hoses and linkages have been connected.

Fill the transaxle with lubricant to the proper level.

If the wheels have been removed, reinstall them.

Take off any jack(s) that were supporting the transaxle and/or engine and lower the vehicle.

Move the shift lever into neutral and re-hook the shift rod coupling.

Connect the negative battery cable.

You will want to road test the vehicle for proper operation and check for leaks.

It is important to follow all linkage and lever installation instructions.
The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and
over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly.

CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING QUALITY DOES NOT MEAN A DEFECT IN THE CARBURETOR.
AN ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING.

SET UP ADJUSTMENTS

Start set up by confirming carb base line settings.

Do not depend on the factory delivered settings. Check them before the carb is installed.
All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged.

Parts you might need – link to category Performance Carburetor Kits

This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and
inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement ) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. You can check the fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.)

Set the Idle stop screw (speed screw see fig 1) by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever.

Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance.

(Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn no more than 11/2 turns.

Set the mixture screw (see Fig 1) by first screwing in until the screw stops, bottoms out.

DO NOT FORCE OR BIND AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT’S SEAT IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR.

Back out the screw 2 full turns.

TUNING

BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE, DEVIATION WILL CAUSE THE CARBURETOR TO NOT FUNCTION TO ITS IDEAL SPECIFICATIONS AND MAY NOT PROVIDE THE PERFORMANCE AND FUEL ECONOMY AS DESIGNED.

Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor.

As long as the engine stays running idle speed is not important at this point.

The first thing to do is not set up the idle speed, but to set the Idle mixture screw to lean best idle setting.

First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine dies or runs worse, then back out the screw (recommend turning ¼ to ½ turn at a time). The engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out.

Back out ½ turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it ran its best. Use your ear, not a scope or tuning instruments at this point.
You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point.

Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the Idle speed the screw. The screw will be sensitive and should only take ¼ to ½ turns to achieve the idle speed you like.

Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and apply slight load,
(AC on) and set the Idle as you like it.

Don’t set it too high, as this will cause causes excessive clutch and brake wear. The Idle only needs to be 7 to 900 RPM with light load or AC on. Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups.

Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again.

If all is still best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings.

To confirm settings with the engine running.

Start by screwing in the mixture screw and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out and note if the engine dies. If Idle Mixture screws are with in ½ turn of base line setting then all is well and have fun. Also check the speed screw and note how many total turns from initial contact. You may have opened (turned in) the speed screw. Your final setting should be under 2 full turns.

Reset the screws (back in) to the best final settings (Per your notes) and go on a test drive and have fun.

If the settings are other than described then you may want to recalibrate the Idle circuit (low speed circuit) to your engines needs.

This is done by following the rule of thumb BELOW.

Simple Rules for low speed calibration If the mixture screw is more than 2 1/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small).

When the mixture screw is less than 11/2 then the Idle jet is too rich (too large).
These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns.

If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change.

At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition.

See pictures and notes in the tech 2 article supplied in the kit instructions, view and please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes.

This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size.

JET KITS are available if needed.

EXAMPLE With the speed screw set at no more than
(1 1/2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the mixture screw set at 3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet. The secret to understanding the critical nature of the carburetor set up and the advantages of a WEBER over other carburetors is the Idle circuit.

Referred to as the low speed circuit by Weber, this circuit is responsible for 80% of the driving operation. This is the reason that the Weber should give a fuel economy improvement over most factory carbs along with significant performance gains. In the worst case you should not see a significant fuel economy loss over stock, while improving HP & Drivability.

The Weber Carburetor is a sequentially timed device to the motor like the distributor.

Time taken in the setup will provide more fun later.

It is most important to verify all linkage and levers are installed without binding
and the linkage opens to full throttle and is allowed to close to the Idle Speed Screw.
This is the number one and two reasons for tuning errors, improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing binding in the linkage assembly.

The Individual Runner carbs, IDF, have individual Idle jets and mixture screws for each barrel.
They also have an additional air bleed screws and lock nuts. This is not used for idle adjustment or idle quality.

The settings for these screws should be closed.

Standard IDF Settings:

Parts you might need – link to category Performance Parts

Speed screw ¼ to ½ turn in after contact with lever maximum.

Mixture Screw 1 turn out from lightly seated.

Lean Best Idle Procedures

After confirming the linkage allows the throttle lever to seat against the Idle Speed Screw.
Back off the Idle Speed Screw, then turn the screw in until it contacts the throttle lever and turn it in ½ turn.

Turn in the Mixture Screw in until it LIGHTLY seats, then back it out 1 full turn.

Loosen the 8mm wrench size nuts on the air bleed screws, turn in the air screws until it seats then tighten the nut.

a. Start the engine, it will run slow and like a tractor. As long as it will stay running, the idle speed is not important at this point.

b. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine runs worse, then back out the screw ¼ turn at a time.

The engine should start to smooth out. Continue to back the screw out ¼ turn at a time until the screw does nothing or runs worse. Then turn it back in to the point where it ran best. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust each mixture screw to the best, fastest and smoothest running point. Do this procedure with each mixture screw.

c. Now you may adjust the Idle Speed Screw. It should be sensitive and only require ¼ turn in or out to achieve the idle speed you like.

d. These carbs are commonly used in pairs, this makes the synchronization important,
be sure to bring the high flowing carb down to the low flow carb. Then bring them both up to proper Idle speed.

The Idle Speed Screws are not opened more than ½ turn in.

e. After synchronizing multiple carbs, reconfirm steps b. c. & d.

Simple Rules for Calibration

If your mixture screw is out more than one turn like 11/2 turns then your idle jet is too lean, go up one half size on the Idle jet.

If you mixture screw is not out one full turn, something like only 1/2 turn out from
seated then your Idle jet is too rich, go down one half size on the idle jet.

This is all based on the important fact that your speed screws are not open more than ½ turn if they are then that is also an indication that you have a lean Idle circuit. You are cheating by opening the throttle plates and exposing additional progression holes in the transition.

Pump By-pass Valve:

The pump by-pass valve is designed to allow fuel into the pump circuit and when depressed, by-pass a percentage (hole on the side of the valve) of the fuel delivered to the accelerator pump nozzle/jets.

We have included the zero by-pass valve in our jet kit.

This will deliver all of the available fuel to the engine and not by-pass fuel back to the fuel bowl.

This will increase the duration and volume of the pump shot with the original pump jets.

To decrease the duration and increase the fuel volume we have included in our jet kit the larger 55 pump nozzle/jets.

This is for maximum fuel delivery from the accelerator pump circuit. The accelerator pump by-pass valve is located in the bottom of the fuel bowl, one is required per carburetor.

More Tuning & Adjustment

1. Most Critical! Be sure for initial carburetor set up all air by-pass screws should be in closed position.

These are not commonly used in standard carburetor adjustment.

2. Set the idle speed screw at ¼ to ½ turn in after contact with throttle lever. When doing multiple carburetors all linkage should be disconnected. All carbs should be bench adjusted to same setting.

3. Set the idle mixture screw to one turn out form lightly seated. When checking the seated position to make only light contact with seat, aggressive seating will damage needle and seat of carburetor.

Adjustment if possible should be to find smoothest idle with each mixture screw on all carburetors. Some prefer to do one barrel of each carburetor then come back and do the second barrel

4. Start engine as long as engine starts and runs do not turn up idle speed first.

5. After preliminary lean best setting of idle. Check carburetors for synchronization.
Commonly done by checking lead or front barrel of each carburetor.

6. You will always want to bring high flow carburetor down to match the low flow carburetor.
If this cannot be done you will need to recheck bench assembly for binding throttle in high flow carb. Once you have matched both carburetors you will need to set the idle to the desired idle speed setting. This will be done by adjusting both carbs up or down the same amount and re checking for synchronization.

7. Make one last check of lean best (smoothest running position) idle on all mixture screws one last time.

8. Best idle should end up with the mixture screws at or near one turn off seat.
Check rule of thumb for idle jet selection on the other side of this page.

It is most important to verify all linkage and levers are installed without binding and the linkage opens to full throttle position and is allowed to close to the Idle Speed Screw.
This is the number one and two reasons for tuning errors, improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing binding in the linkage assembly.

Parts you might need – link to category Stock Replacement Parts

CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND
STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING
QUALITY DOES NOT MEAN YOU HAVE A CARBURETION PROBLEM.
THE ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING.
“LEAN BEST IDLE”

Procedures After confirming the linkage allows the throttle to seat against the Idle Speed Screw.
Back off the Idle Speed Screw until it doesn’t touch the throttle lever.

Turn the Speed Screw in until it contacts the throttle lever and turn it in 1 ½ turns.
Repeat this with the other carburetor. Turn the Mixture Screw in until it “LIGHTLY” seats, then back out the screw 2 full turns.

a. Start the engine, it will run slow and like a tractor. As long as it will stay running, the idle speed is not important at this point.

b. First, turn in each mixture screw until the engine runs worse, then back out the screw ¼ turn at a time.

The engine should start to smooth out. Continue to back each screw ¼ turn at a time until the screw does nothing or runs worse. Then turn it back in to the point where it ran best. You want to tune the engine by sound.

Adjust each mixture screw to the best, fastest and smoothest running point.
Do this procedure with each mixture screw.

c. Now you may adjust the Idle Speed Screw. It should be sensitive and only “require” ½ turn out to lower the idle speed. The Speed Screw should never be in more than 1 ½ turns in.

d. These carbs are commonly used in pairs, this makes the synchronization important,
be sure to bring the high flowing carb down to the low flow carb. Then bring them both up to “proper” Idle speed. The Idle Speed Screws are never opened more than 1½ turn in maximum.

e. After synchronizing multiple carbs, reconfirm steps b. c. & d. Pump By-pass Valve:
The pump by-pass valve is designed to allow fuel into the pump circuit and when depressed,
by-pass a percentage of the fuel delivered to the accelerator pump nozzle/jets.
(by-pass through a hole on the side of the valve back into the fuel bowl).
We have included the zero by-pass valve. (no hole in the side).

This will deliver all of the available fuel to the engine and not by-pass back into the fuel bowl.
This will increase the duration and fuel volume of the pump shot with the original pump nozzle/jets.

The accelerator pump by-pass valve is located in the bottom of the fuel bowl. One is required per carburetor.

Simple Rules for low speed calibration If the mixture screw is more than 21/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small).
When the mixture screw is less than 11/2 then the Idle jet is too rich (too large).

These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change.

At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition.
See pictures and notes in the tech 2 article supplied in the kit instructions,
view and please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes.

This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size.
JET KITS are available if needed.

EXAMPLE With the speed screw set at no more than one half (1 1/2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the mixture screw set at 3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.

The secret to understanding the critical nature of the carburetor set up and the advantages of a WEBER over other carburetors is the Idle circuit. Referred to as the low speed circuit by Weber, this circuit is responsible for 80% of the driving operation.

This is the reason that the Weber should give a fuel economy improvement over most factory carbs along with significant performance gains. In the worst case you should not see a significant fuel economy loss over stock, while improving HP & Drivability. The Weber Carburetor is a sequentially timed device to the motor like the distributor. Time taken in the setup will provide more fun later.

Parts you might need – link to category Stock Replacement Parts

Slide the spacer on to the shaft and center it. Then a rocker shim needs to go on each side.

Then slide on a rocker on each side of the shims. Then another shim goes on each side.

Now we will put our rocker pedestals on the outside of the rockers. Then (you guessed it) another shim goes on out side of the pedestals.

The last two rockers go on next. At each end of the shaft you have a shim then the thick washer a thin washer and the screw in that order.

Do not tighten the end screws yet. We then installed the ball style adjusters into the rockers. Always make sure the flat part of adjuster is facing out.

Now to the heads, we put our push rods down the push rod tubes. Then the rubber o-rings go on to the rocker studs.

We determined we needed a .060 shim under the rocker shafts to get the correct rocker geometry. Next we put the rocker shafts on to the studs and triple checked that we did not have to much play in the rockers arms. We made sure the ends of the rocker shafts were tightened down. If you do end up with to much play, you can use more shims were necessary.

Since we are using Empi bolt on valve covers, we have to use there special nuts to hold down the rocker arms. The rocker shafts need to be torqued to 18 lbs. Next we are going to set the valves. This is to ensure the proper spacing between the valve adjusters and the valve. Jackson follows the firing order of the engine(1 – 4 – 3 -2) when setting valves. He shared with me that other people have there own way of doing this procedure. We follow Jackson’s way.

Using a feeler gauge we are going to set the valves. We are going to start with the number one cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC) This means that both the intake and exhaust valves are closed and you will see that number two’s exhaust valve is starting to open. Jackson uses the .006 feeler gauge when setting the valves. Put the feeler gauge between the adjuster and the valve tip. Screw in the adjuster until the feeler gauge slides firmly between the two. Then lock the adjuster jam nuts so the adjuster won’t move. Then rotate the crank pulley one half turn to Bottom Dead Center (BDC) and know you are ready to adjust number 4.

We are done adjusting the valve and we are going to put on our bolt on valve covers. These covers come with a rubber cork/mix gasket that seem to seal very well. This kit has a bolt, washer and 0-ring that needs to go in that order. Then they are tightened down.

If we had an oil pump installed, we would have a complete long block..

First we had to use longer oil pump studs since the stock ones were to short for a heavy duty oil pump. Then we disassembled our oil pump. Use a small amount of regular Permatex on the first gasket then insert just the pump housing into the case.

Then the gears were put in top gear first. Use a small amount of oil on the gears to help them slide in. Next is the oil pump cover gasket, again a small amount of regular Permatex.

Now put on the oil pump cover and torque the nuts down to 14 lbs.

Mark the position of the stop plate in relation to the ball housing after pulling back the floor mat and putting the shift lever in Neutral.
This will ensure proper alignment during installation.
Caution: Incorrect adjustment of the stop plate in the shift lever assembly can cause shifting problems.

Parts you might need – link to category Shift Rods and Parts

Take off the mounting bolts from the ball housing flange.

Take off the shift lever, ball housing, rubber boot and spring as a single unit.

Note the orientation of the raised tab(s) on the stop plate before removing the stop plate.
Some stop plates have a single tab on the right side of the hole which faces up; other plates have two tabs facing up, with the long, low narrow tab near the driver and the shorter higher tab on the right. The important thing to remember is that the stop plate must be reinstalled with the tab(s) oriented exactly the same way they were before removal, regardless of the design.

Clean all of the parts completely.

Look over the shift lever collar, stop plate and shift lever ball socket in the shift rod for wear. Replace any worn parts.

Make sure the shift lever locating pin is secure. Check the spring in the steel ball for tension. Replace it if it s worn.

Install the stop plate. Make sure it s oriented with the tab(s) facing the same way as before removal.

Lubricate all moving parts with multipurpose grease.

Inspect the condition of the rubber boot. Replace it if it s damaged.

Install the shift lever assembly (lever, ball housing and spring). Make sure the shift lever locating pin engages the slot in the ball socket and the stop plate seats in the hollow central part of the ball housing. If the lever is installed and seated properly, it will be vertical when it s in Neutral.

Install the ball housing flange bolts loosely. Match up the alignment marks on the flange, stop plate and tunnel and tighten the bolts securely.

Check the position of the shift lever by engaging the gears again.
Re-adjust as necessary.

Shift rod

Note: Make sure the replacement is the same length as the original, if you re replacing a shift rod – the rod on later models is shortened to fit the relocated mounting bracket for the guide bushing in the frame tunnel.

Remove the shift lever assembly.

Now take out the rear seat.

Remove the inspection cover on the frame tunnel.

Remove the fasteners from the shift rod coupling.

Take out the front bumper.

Remove the access cover in the frame head and in the front body apron.

Use a pair of pliers to separate the shift rod from the coupling and slide it through the shift rod guide bushing while working through the hole in the frame tunnel. If the grease on the shift rod – or the bushing itself – is dry, you may encounter some resistance.

Pull the shift rod forward, through the tunnel and out the hole while working through the hole in the frame head.

Look over the shift rod for distortion. Replace it if it s warped or damaged (a bent shift rod can cause hard shifting and/or the loss of first and third gear).

Look over the shift rod guide bushing for dryness, cracking or other damage. Replace it if needed. To remove the old bushing, you ll need to pull it – and the wire ring – out of the shift rod guide with a pair of pliers. Slide a new wire ring onto the end of the bushing and install the bushing, slotted end first, into the shift rod guide, in order to install a new bushing.

Coat the entire shift rod with multi-purpose grease.

Insert the shift rod through the hole in the frame head, through the shift rod guide in the tunnel and push it all the way to the rear until it is totally engaged into the shift rod coupling.

Now put the frame head cover in, the access cover in the front apron and the bumper.

Install the shift rod coupling fasteners and tighten them securely. Install the inspection cover on the frame tunnel. Put in the rear seat.

Put in the shift lever assembly.

Adjust the shift lever.