Engine and Trans

IDF Carburetors Low Speed Circuit Tuning

It is most important to verify all linkage and levers are installed without binding
and the linkage opens to full throttle and is allowed to close to the Idle Speed Screw.
This is the number one and two reasons for tuning errors, improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing binding in the linkage assembly.

The Individual Runner carbs, IDF, have individual Idle jets and mixture screws for each barrel.
They also have an additional air bleed screws and lock nuts. This is not used for idle adjustment or idle quality.

The settings for these screws should be closed.

Standard IDF Settings:

Parts you might need – link to category Performance Parts

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Carburetor Set Up and Adjustment 34 ICT

It is most important to verify all linkage and levers are installed without binding and the linkage opens to full throttle position and is allowed to close to the Idle Speed Screw.
This is the number one and two reasons for tuning errors, improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing binding in the linkage assembly.

Parts you might need – link to category Stock Replacement Parts

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table text goes here Lets get started, we have our new heavy duty rocker shafts and 1.25 ratio rockers. Now we need to assemble them.

Parts you might need – link to category Stock Replacement Parts

Slide the spacer on to the shaft and center it. Then a rocker shim needs to go on each side. Click here to continue reading this article…

Tech Article – Swing Axle Tranny Removal and Replacement

Parts you might need – link to category Transaxle Parts

Note: You can remove and install the axle tubes and axleshafts with the transaxle installed in the vehicle, but it s not recommended. In order to determine the clearance at the inner end of the axle tube, you need to be able to swing the axle tube around freely. That s hard to do with the transaxle installed on the vehicle. It s also hard to install new gaskets or shims from under the vehicle without damaging them. Lastly, it s really hard to prevent dirt from getting into the differential.

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Parts you might need - link to category Stock Transaxles

Parts you might need - link to category Stock Exhaust Parts

Parts you might need - link to category Stock Clutch Cables

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Parts you might need - link to category Engine ReBuild Kits

Parts you might need - link to category Engine ReBuild Kits

Parts you might need - link to category Fan Shrouds

Engine ID Codes
VW stamped all type 1’s and pre ‘72 type 2’s on the right case half just below the generator pedestal.

The first and sometimes the second digit/letter denotes the basic engine group.
So the best you can do is narrow down the engine to a group.
Here are the groups

Type 1 Code - Year -Engine – Remarks
4 – 60 – 1200 – 40 HP
5 – 61 – 1200 – 40 HP
6 – 62 – 1200 – 40 HP
7 – 63 – 1200 – 40 HP
8 – 64 – 1200 – 40 HP
9 – 65 – 1200 – 40 HP
FO – 66 – 1300 – 8mm oil pump studs
HO/TO- 67 – 1500 – 8mm oil pump studs
H5 – 68-69 – 1500 – 8mm oil pump studs
B6 – 70 – 1600 – Dual Relief – single port
AE – 71-72 – 1600 – Dual Relief – Dual Port
AH – 73-74 – 1600 – 8mm Head studs w/case savers
AJ – 75 – 1600 – Fuel injected, no fuel pump mount.

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We are starting with a New counter weighted 69mm crank shaft.

Lets get started, we have our new 69mm counterweighted crankshaft and re-built connecting rods. Both of these pieces are covered with cosmolene so they will not rust. We are going to put them in the hot tank to get this off.

Now we are ready. We use an engine stand with a welded to a piece of pipe, the we screw the flywheel end into it. This allows us to rotate the crank while we work on it.

Parts you might need - link to category Crankshafts & Parts

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Removing an Engine from a Beetle

We would like to show you how to remove an engine from a Beetle. Whether you have an early beetle or a late model beetle, removing it from the car has the same principals.

We had a late model car come in that the engine had to be pulled out. Now our service guys have been removing engines from VW’s for 50 years, well maybe a little less since we are not yet 50 . But if this is your first time it would be helpful to know what to expect.

There are 4 bolts holding the engine on to the transmission. The studs go through the engine case first, meaning the nuts will be on the transmission side. There are studs that stay in place on the engine in the lower position. The two on top are bolts. Also there is an input-shaft coming out of the middle of the transmission that goes directly through the pressure plate into the pilot bearing.

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Tech Article – How to Properly Break In Your VW Engine

Many people do not understand the importance of the following the appropriate steps to prepare an engine to run for the first time. The steps are very important, and can mean life or death for a high performance engine (no kidding). The information in this article can also be a useful guide to starting an engine that has been sitting for a long period of time, since it ensures proper oiling before the engine fires. Engine Assembly Use good quality engine oil (20-50 or 30 weight) to coat all bearing surfaces, as well as the surfaces of moving parts they contact.

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In response to clean air requirements, VW put a rubber hose (about 1/2″ ID) from the oil filler pipe to the air cleaner to take the oil fumes from the crankcase to the carburetor for burning. The VW engine pulls fresh air into the crankcase from a spiral groove in the crankcase forward of (front is front) the engine crankcase pulley, thus providing positive crankcase ventilation.

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Tech Article – Replacing the starter bushing.
Submitted by our forum member “corrosion”

To replace the $2 starter bushing is actually a easy thing to do and there are two different ways to do it.

1. With the engine out and the tranny still in and the starter out, you can simply drive the bushing out with a punch.

2. Remove the starter and then take a 3/8 tap and run it in until it hits the backing plate. Once it hits the backing plate keep turning until the bushing comes out. It will work up the threads of the tap. If it just spins after the tap is fully engaged, you can then pull or pry the bushing out.

I tried the easy out method and ended up splitting the bushing with a small cold chisel and pulling it out with pliers. Needless to say, I will never get that two hours back.

Good luck.

Parts you might need - link to category Performance Push Rod Tubes

Parts you might need - link to category Performance Breather Systems

Parts you might need - link to category VW Oil Cooling Systems

Parts you might need -- link to category VW Clutch Plates and Discs

There is knocking noise at low speeds.

The driveaxle constant velocity (CV) joint(s) are worn.

Noise most pronounced when turning.

There is differential gear noise.

Clunk on acceleration or deceleration

The engine or transaxle mounts are loose.

The differential pinion shaft in case if worn.

The damaged driveaxle CV joints are worn.
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The pedal travels to the floor with no pressure or very little resistance

The release bearing or fork is broken.

The diaphragm spring in the clutch pressure plate has collapsed.

High pedal effort

The clutch cable is worn.

The clutch release shaft/housing is worn.
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Fluid leakage

The automatic transmission fluid is a deep red color. The fluid leaks should not be confused with the engine oil, which can be blown onto the transaxle by airflow really easily.

In order to pinpoint a leak, you ll need to first remove all the built-up dirt and grime from the transaxle housing with degreasing agents and/or steam cleaning. After this, drive the vehicle at low speeds so the airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is coming from.

The transaxle fluid brown is or has a burned smell.

The transaxle fluid is burned.
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Parts you might need -- link to category VW Camshafts and Parts

Air Cooled engines had two types of cams. 1961 to 1971 had a Flat cam that had three rivets and a Dished cam 1972 to 1979 that had four rivets.
If you are going to upgrade or replace your oil pump, you first need to know what cam you have and the order the pump to match the cam. If you are going to order an aftermarket performance cam, you will need to purchase an oil pump for a flat cam.

All performance cams have a bolt on cam gear that is a Flat gear.

In the photo below, the early style cam is on the left and the dished cam is on the right.

Overheating

The drivebelt is slipping.

The fan air intake behind the shroud is blocked or restricted.

The thermostat is faulty.

The ignition timing is incorrect.

The air/fuel mixture is incorrect.

Overcooling

The thermostat is faulty.

Engine will not rotate when attempting to start

Check for loose battery terminal connections or corrosion.

Battery is discharged or faulty.

The Automatic Stick Shift is not in Neutral.

There could be broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit.

The starter motor pinion is jammed in the flywheel ring gear.

The starter solenoid is faulty.

The starter motor is faulty.

The ignition switch is faulty.

The starter pinion or flywheel teeth are worn or broken.
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Parts you might need - link to category Stock Ignition System

Parts you might need - link to category Alternators